Shiufen, Jiufen, And Other Delights In Taiwan
Taiwan
A couple of things I did research in advance and look forward to seeing in Taiwan are Shiufen and Jiufen, and, perhaps most of all, the Queen’s Head at Yehliu Geopark. I’m so excited for my day trip today! Another one with Klook. And this one includes pastry-making! Of all the tours I booked, this one was the one that I was most excited for. Sadly, Vincent is not my tour guide today. It’s ok, the new guide, Sunny, seems very nice and she escorts us to our bus for the day.
Yehliu Geopark
We arrive at the Geopark, and the first thing I notice is, there are a ton of tourists. I’m not thrilled about it. Sunny takes us to the entrance, explains where the Queen’s Head is, and not to miss the turnoff on the path or we’ll go to far. I feel like I’m in a race because we only have 45 minutes, and we can’t be late for the bus. I take off feeling like I’m running for my life past hordes of people, to see the Queen’s Head.
Unfortunately I’m so focused on getting ahead of the crowds and not missing my bus, that I completely miss the turnoff for the Queen’s Head and end up all the way at the end of the geopark, exactly what Sunny said not to do. It’s hot, I’m frustrated. I take a few photos, and then speed back the way I came from and through trial and error, find the Queen’s Head.
By now, I have about 20 minutes to get back to the bus, and there’s a huge line to take photos of the Queen’s Head. So long that there’s no way I’m going to make my bus if I wait. So, I go around the line, and give up getting selfies, and instead walk around to see her for myself. She is an impressive site, even with all the people around! This is another example of how the earth’s natural movements and evolution create some beautiful artwork, in my opinion. And, on the way out, I see that time and evolution mean that, sadly, the Queen’s Head is heading towards collapsing in the future.
I take a few photos, then race back to the entrance to do a quick browse of the information panels, and then run to the bus. I’m hot, and I sure hope I don’t have to run this quickly through the sites the rest of the day.
Jiufen
After feeling beaten down by the heat and humidity at the geopark, I’m somewhat shocked to emerge at Jiufen among cloudy, rainy weather, and to feel cold! I have to put my sweater on, and buy one of those plastic folded rain jackets for a few bucks.
Sunny leads us to the entrance of the key attraction at Jiufen – the windy shop-laden streets. She recommends a few shops, and says she’ll be waiting for us in a tea shop, giving us the number of that store. To say this place is crowded is an understatement. (Pro Tip: get here on your own via public transport in the morning, or early evening, and you can skip the crowds!) And, once again, we have to get back to our bus on time, so I feel more rushed than I’d like.
For me, the main interest is to find the tea house which was apparently the inspiration for one of the scenes in the movie “Spirited Away.” I saw it years ago and loved it. I follow signs into the depths of the winding streets, then turn right, down some stairwells, and…there it is. Of course, everyone wants a photo of it, and the ledge which offers the best views is full. So, I pick a different angle and get some of my own photos without having to compete with everyone else. I head into the tea shop thinking I might get a small bite and some tea, but the prices are clearly based on the fame of the location, so I give that a pass.
I end up trying some food back in the main shop area. First, a strange hot dog type sandwich with two types of sausage, one of which is made from rice. It was actually quite tasty! Then I have a lovely pineapple cake and a cup of coffee at a small shop, and I sneak in a try of the peanut ice cream recommended by Sunny. Not my favorite.
I have a little time to peruse the shops, and, guess what I find??! A new hat! Not only is it exactly the same as the one I lost, but it’s also the same price – $3. Yay! I also want to try the Alishan tea that Sunny told us about, so I head to the tea shop where she is, and give it a try. It truly is delectable. The thing is, it’s also really expensive. Only because I complained about the price, did they suddenly find a smaller bag of it at a much more reasonable price. I got the feeling that there are some commissions being scored there, but hey, I got my tea!
We head back the way we came. The streets are windy and narrow, so that means waiting for a public bus (included in the tour price), speeding down the road to the car park, and re-boarding our bus. (You might have to keep your eyes closed for part of the ride, and you definitely need to hold on tight to the poles while driving downhill!) We’re off to the next stop – Shifen!
Shifen – Lantern Launch!
I’m pretty excited about this. Sunny explains that we’ll be getting lanterns. At this point, I don’t understand their size, and presume they are, well, lantern-sized. Sunny tells us that we can share a lantern, as a group of four, and write wishes on one side each, or, we can buy a full lantern, for like $10, and write on all the sides. Yes, please!
When we arrive in Shifen, Sunny guides us to the shop where we’ll get our lantern. The town of Shifen, at least that I saw on this tour, is literally a street of shops and lantern launching. So, not as alluring as I had thought. We walk into the shop and are assigned a lantern. This is when I learn that each lantern is about as tall as I am! Next to the lantern is a brush and black ink, and I try and match each color to a wish in its category (love, health, career….).
When I’m done, a man comes over and guides me onto the main street. He takes my camera and gets photos of me with my lantern, and then launching it after he lights the small candle on the inside. I watch it disappear into the sky above, and then it’s time to head back to the bus for our final stop, pastry making!
Pastry Class
We drive over to New Taipei to a factory that makes all kinds of sweets. Our group is led upstairs where we each make our own small pineapple cake from scratch. And by scratch, I mean the dough is already made, and we get to insert our filling, and place everything into an awaiting mold. We receive a number, and leave our unbaked sweets behind, while the shop puts them into the oven for us.
In the meantime, we go back downstairs and get to try “one of everything,” and there are a lot of sweets to try! This seems to be another place that probably earns our guide some commission, but I still found it fun to make the cake, and when I tried mine later that night, it was delicious!
Once back in downtown Taipei, I top off the day with a quick trip to one of the nearby night markets, Ningxia. It’s quite small, just a few blocks, but I’m tired. I see some squid that looks delicious but the line is too long so I get some sweet potato balls instead. I have to admit, they’re fairly oily and I feel like I’m tripling up on carbs, so I also get some chicken before calling it a night.
My Honest Opinion Of Today’s Tour
I’m really glad I left all the planning and transportation to someone else, that made it much easier to visit all the places on this tour.
That being said, I was disappointed at the speed with which we had to blast through each location. I prefer to take my time, and experience everything at my own pace. When I return to Taiwan, I’d definitely go back to Jiufen on my own, perhaps even stay overnight, so I can avoid the crowds and see more of it. I’m really glad I got my photos at the geopark, but it’s just too touristy for my liking.
I also felt more of a sense on this tour that our guide was hoping to make commissions. I have no proof she did, but she was very vocal about convincing us to buy tea and sweets. And, our guide was very kind, informative, and had a great sense of humor, so that made up for some of that feeling.
All-in-all, I’d say if you have the time, make your own way to each of these places and spend more time, it’s definitely a worthwhile way to spend it.
Ready For your journey?
Sabbatical, Career Break, Adult Gap Year…
How To Start, How To Afford It….and More!








If you want to see every post I’ve written, starting with the most recent, this is the place to start!
I’ve been traveling the globe solo, and many of my posts share thoughts and resources specifically for other solo travelers. If you’re a fellow solo traveler, or you’re thinking about solo travel, this is a collection you will find of interest.
If you’re looking to read blog posts about specific destinations, click the country of your interest below to go to it’s blog page and get country-specific reviews and thoughts.
Sometimes I write posts where I give insider information on certain cities I’ve visited, which may be more along the lines of places to go, how to save money, etc. If that’s your main interest, check out this compilation of posts.
In 2020, I was traveling in New Zealand as the coronavirus pandemic brewed, and, got stuck there. If you want to read about what this time was like and traveling during this time, check out this page.
At the heart of international travel is learning about the many different cultures and ways of being around the world. The posts compiled on this page speak, specifically, about the cultural observations I’ve had.
Many of my blog posts are about things I’ve discovered about myself or about being, while I’ve traveled. If you’d like to focus on posts that only have self-discovery themes, click the button below.





I appreciate an honest review and the fact you weren’t sold with the crowds and how rushed it was would always make me seriously weigh out the benefits of a tour. Getting to do the pastry making would be a highlight, and the teahouse really is pretty, as are the unique rock formations. Overall it would be a nice day trip, but I’d wonder if there are other tours that are less rushed, or maybe it’s better to try and do it yourself where you might allow more time
The convenience of the tour as a first-time visitor can’t be beat. But I’d highly recommend going on your own especially to Jiufen which you really need more than an hour to explore. There is a direct bus from Taipei Main Station. That’s what I’m doing next time!
Ahh yes the lanterns! We did this same tour, and agree it was too much too rushed. Like many day tours. But I’m still glad we did it. Our however didn’t have any pastry making!! Sad face 🙁 Enjoyed your photos so much.
Yes! The pastry making kind of made up for how rushed the day was. Still happy I got to see everything. 🙏🏻
The places you visited look quite interesting, though the speed of the visit and crowds is not so appealing. Going it alone sounds like something we’d enjoy. Is there a time of year we could visit with the least crowds?
The trick is timing both the tourism and the weather. They have a typhoon season and even though November is supposed to be fine, I flew in the day a typhoon hit the south of the island.
So make sure to research weather (they get a lot of rain) and tourism periods. December is peak tourism as it’s better weather and Christmas. The summer is ungodly hot ABs humid. So there’s much to research!
The places look and sound interesting. Sad, that the Queen’s head is slinking. It’s the way nature is, but still.
I agree. I understand it’s nature taking her course but it’s such a beautiful formation I’m sure we all want it to stay.
I would hate to be pressured to buy goods so my guide could make a commission. I find this happens on big big bus tours. But now you can go back snd revisit places on the tour at a slower pace. You really capture the craziness of the packed day!
Yeah I understand the concept and they’re not doing anything wrong nor did they pressure anyone but it’s a bit uncomfortable. You’re absolutely right and now I’d feel comfortable going on my own!
I love reading honest reviews like this. I am contemplating re-visiting Taiwan and this area. I first visited Taipei ona stopover and felt fairly overwhelmed (very tired, too) and I am thinking of visiting these destinations by public transport. Do you think it’s doable, especially if I spread it over two days, out of Taipei, if I stay near Central Station?
I think, if you’re using public transport, you’d need at least 3 days to see all this. I’m not sure if you’ll have to go back and forth to Taipei in order to catch transport to each place.